Post by Paul E. BennettPost by MalcolmIt's been a long time since I worked for Marconi Marine, but my
clouded brain recalls having devises similar to sacrificial anodes -
but something metalic on the outside of the hull - connected through a
bolt to an earthing point inside the hull and thick copper bar.
Some mention has been made of using propellor shaft / propellor - but
I would have thought that would mean rapid corrosion ??.
Would anyone drill holes in the bottom of a high class wooden rowing skiff
that happend to have a battery and inverter on board to run a laptop? (I
know it is an unlikely scenario) that was why I said the usual answer is
"it depends".
Generally, so long as there is good isolation, there is little problem in
having a fully floating 230V output with no reference to earth connections.
Much more likely - a classic wooden yacht (or even original wooden
motor cruiser), where you don't especially want to have any bits going
through the hull that you can possibly avoid.
I occasionally use a small (150W) inverter on board such vessels for
laptop or similar fairly low load devices. I try to check for the
'double insulated' symbol on what I'm connecting, and let everything on
the 230V side 'float'.
You could connect the 'Earth' to the 12V Neg, which is *probably*
connected to the engine block which is *probably* connected to the prop
shaft (but on one GRP boat I was on last week, where I expected that to
be true, the Engine power was completely separate from the domestics
power, including the Neg wiring, which surprised me). However,
realistically within an environment that is all insulators - wood,
GRP, furnishings, etc - I would have thought it was better to have the
230V floating. What do others think?
Also, it is possible that some cheap inverters (like the one I have) may
not be very happy with having their Earth connected to their 12V Neg
input, although they *should* be OK.
--
Jeremy Nunns
Cambridge
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