Paloma problem and cure

[Roger Glover]

Hello,

Sorry to blurt this out here but I feel good and it may just help someone.

My Paloma water heater has been playing up for a while and today I've
managed to sort it.

After being drained for a few months the main burner got lazy to start but
of more concern, when the hot tap was closed, was very slow in going out.

The problem turned out to be a build up of lime-scale in a couple of small
holes in a venturi located in the outlet port of the water control valve.
Taking the venturi out and cleaning the holes has restored normal service.

If anyone's interested, I've put a description and some pictures up at
www.rgee.co.uk/draper/paloma

Now that I've got that off my chest, I'll go away - smiling.

Regards,
Roger,
nb. Draper - Regent's Canal

r(dot)glover(at)btinternet(dot)com

[Jim Davies]

Roger, I will file that very useful piece of information for the
future, hoever MY "Paloma Problem" is that I can't drain the thing in
the first place. The drain plug/valve which should be released is stuck
and I am reluctant to use to much force on it in case I break it (past
experience comes into play here!) Can anyone recommend a way of freeing
the valve please?

Jim Davies
nb Starcross

[Ron Jones]

Post by Jim Davies
Roger, I will file that very useful piece of information for the
future, hoever MY "Paloma Problem" is that I can't drain the thing in
the first place. The drain plug/valve which should be released is
stuck and I am reluctant to use to much force on it in case I break
it (past experience comes into play here!) Can anyone recommend a way
of freeing the valve please?

Well, I used mole grips, but it a bit kill or cure, I agree. Had to replace
the 'O' ring afterwards.
Why not try a spot of plus gas, when it's nice and hot (with care - plus gas
is rather flammable!)

[CRISTOFF]

Thanks for the posting about the Paloma I think I now have a job to do
this weekend.

While I am at it I think that the matrix may be partially blocked as
when I turn the temperature to hot the flow drops so much that the
water boils.

Hav you any idea if it is possible to remove the matrix so that I can
treat it with a descaler

Thanks

Chris Woodward (nb Tommy Telford)

[Roger Glover]

"CRISTOFF" <***@aol.com> wrote in message news:***@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Hello Chris,

Post by CRISTOFF
Thanks for the posting about the Paloma I think I now have a job to do
this weekend.

Going by the e-mails I've received, it seems that two heaters that were
doomed have been saved.

Post by CRISTOFF
While I am at it I think that the matrix may be partially blocked as
when I turn the temperature to hot the flow drops so much that the
water boils.

My Paloma does produce very hot water although at a low rate and when doing
this it does kettle (rattle) a bit.

Hmm.
If the heater lights up ok, then I'm assuming that your pump is providing
enough flow and pressure.

I didn't take too much notice but the heat exchanger appeared to be a couple
of turns of copper pipe (~12mm) wrapped around the finned heat collector. I
think it would take a lot of limescale to restrict the flow in that.

Post by CRISTOFF
Hav you any idea if it is possible to remove the matrix so that I can
treat it with a descaler

One way would be to remove the heater and the water control valve, turn the
heater upside down, and fill the pipe with descaler or vinegar.

In the water circuit, the tightest restriction is the water control valve.
It is a rather strange thing, the moving part being a barrel into which is
machined a cut-out and a slot, I think that the slot part is used to
restrict the water when set to hot.
Perhaps that has got crudded up?

The barrel is easy to remove to check it out.
Gas off, water off, open hot tap and the heater drain valve. After the cover
is off you be able to remove the two cross head screws that secure the
retaining plate. The control barrel then can be withdrawn and checked.

I've found that a smear of silicon grease on the 'O' rings makes reassembly
painless., also it makes the control operate easily without damaging the
knob.

Another thing, if the heater is mounted near the sink, put the plug in the
drain, if not one of the screws will drop ...
Been there, done that!

Good luck and please let us know how you get on.

[Jim]

"I've found that a smear of silicon grease on the 'O' rings makes reassembly
painless., also it makes the control operate easily without damaging the
knob.2

a rub with candlewax works a treat too
Jim
CC Bittern's Boom

[CRISTOFF]

[CRISTOFF]

Thank for all the advice I will have a play and let you know how I get
on

Chris